Flora y Fauna

Prior to leaving on my trip everyone's greatest warning to me was to avoid bears. I, personally, wasn't too concerned about bears (though, to be fair, I was petrified at the thought of running into one somewhere mid-berry patch) but I was paralyzed with fear when it came to ticks. Awful. 

Now, 98 days into this adventure, the plant life and the critters around us are some of the most fascinating things out here. In the past two days I have seen 3 bears (a mom and two cubs), a rattlesnake (I just about peed my pants), countless bunnies (they almost got adopted and domesticated) and millions of bugs, notably cicadas. The ticks are bad but I have been lucky to only have two on me, whereas some of the boys and their thick leg hair pick them up by the dozen.

The cicadas that are out this year are the 17 year cicadas that spend 17 years gestating a few inches below the surface of the ground before bursting forth from their dark confines in all their terrifying red-eyed glory for a frantic, species-continuing orgy, dying nearly immediately afterwards, leaving the forest floor covered with their crunchy carcasses. In short, cicadas are disgusting. 

The past few days their presence has picked up again and as we have walked their crispy corpses have crunched violently under our feet. Yesterday it was particularly bad (I counted some of the bugs on the trail and stopped when I got to 500, realizing that extrapolating out the number of total dead, not just on our 1.5 foot wide stretch of trail, was almost inconceivable),  though that was about the only thing that was. We awoke somewhat late and got started with a exceptionally gradual climb up to the ridge line on perfectly maintained trail, stopping 7 miles in for a quick snack break and to check WebMD to confirm that, yes, 2pac has giardia and no, it's not all mental. 

We made quick work of the next 11 miles and were able to hitch into Lickdale, PA relatively easily, though we suffered through being crammed in the back of an aggressively rusted 1980s Lincoln with packs on our laps. Our driver, at our request, dropped us off at the local Wendy's so that we could dive face first in some Frostys in waffle cones (and French fries. And hamburgers). We then decided that it was time for a night of civilization so we checked into the Days Inn across from Wendy's and took care o all necessary town duties - laundry, showers, resupply, dinner at Sbarro (huge mistake) and some serious relaxing (I may have been asleep by 8:30pm). 

Today was relatively easy as well, though the rocks were a much bigger nuisance, leaving my feet and ankles bruised and beaten. Some vine with thorns made its first substantial appearance on the trail today as well, leaving all exposed parts of my body scratched to high heaven. Thankfully at 1:00pm we arrived at 501 Shelter to which you can have pizza delivered as it is just off the interstate. A slice or so in we realized that a storm was quickly approaching so we all took shelter in the cabin to wait it out. The rain was torrential but thankfully relatively short-lived and we were able to get back on the trail before 4:00pm after a nice long book-reading break. 

We had intended to push on another 9 miles to put today at 20 total after 501 but when we saw the campgrounds at mile 17 it was too good to pass up. We made dinner and set our plans for the next few days to make sure to get me to town for my birthday (51 hours to go! But who's counting...). The next few days will hold some big miles but it will all be worth it come birthday time. Here's hoping the AT gives me better luck on these rocks as an early present.