Bad Day

Today sucked. That's as eloquently as I can put it at this point. It had its ups and downs but today was, without a doubt, my worst day out on the AT.

This morning I went to pick up some resupplies at 8am ish and came back only to find that my walking companion, Turtle, was planning on hiking out with someone else. This wouldn't be a problem under normal circumstance but I had fed her, hung her food with mine, paced with her, etc for the previous 5 days. Thanks for the heads up.

The pity spiral that followed was pretty crippling. It truly hit me that I am out here, alone, still over 2,000 miles from the top of Mt. Katahdin away from my family, friends, boyfriend, and puggle. Even though I got a liner for my sleeping bag I still have yet to wake up with warm toes and sleeping through the night has still been elusive because no matter how fancy this sleeping pad is still not a pillow-top mattress. The pain that I'm in daily is excruciating. On the uphills my calves and hamstrings burn. On the downhills my ankles, knees and toes are screaming from all the pounding. And that doesn't even include the constant pain in my feet just from the act of walking so many miles each day, more often than not slipping along through slush and mud along the sides of mountains.

As I said, it's brutal. And completely self-inflicted.

We only did about 10 miles today all of which was littered with trail magic (gummy bears soaked in moonshine anyone?) but we got a late start and didn't start walking till almost 1:30pm. The first four miles were a breeze but the next 6 were muddy, slushy and soul crushing. I almost pushed my emergency button and just sat down to wait for rescue. I guess the view from the top was nice though.

Tomorrow hopefully we get to civilization again to avoid the pending thunderstorms. Hopefully tomorrow is a better day.

100+ Miles

Today we officially hit the 100 mile mark on the AT at the top of Albert Mountain in all 5,200 ft of its glory. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that, as of today, I am 1/10th of the way to Harpers Ferry and the halfway point of the trail. My feet ache, my toes are throbbing, my knees need more than a little support am I'm out of Advil but we are back in a town and I am thoroughly enjoying every overheated moment in this dinky hotel room.

As if making it to 100 wasn't enough, we opted to add on an additional 10 miles, masochists that we are, to make today our first 16+ mile day.

The day got off to a fun start with a fury visitor, somewhat lovingly named Buttons, burrowing his way into one of turtles mittens inside her pack at dawn. He would have been cute if he was at a safe distance and not running through our sleeping bags as I, predictably, screamed and bolted for high ground. At least we were awake.

The trek was relatively smooth and was loaded with trail magic including something called a "green energy snow cone" which is basically a snowball topped with something that tastes like Monster energy drink. Everyone was partaking so we did (I figured all p the carcinogens in the concentrated energy drink liquid would kill any bacteria in the snow). My heart raced for about 15 minutes but man did we truck it up that second climb.

The second bit of magic came at about 3.8 miles to go. A gentleman named Happy Jack was waiting at Wallace Gap with Budweiser, apples, bananas and chips. Fun trick? Two Advil and a beer will cure all foot pain at least until you get to your destination and find a ride into town.

AYCE pizza helps too. The Factory is a place in Franklin, NC that has two restaurants (both AYCE), mini golf, bowling and hundreds of arcade games. It looks a bit like the land of the blob people from Wall-E inside with remarkably overweight patrons bouncing from video games where you sit and kind of sway back and forth to simulate a roller coaster (the DDR was not surprisingly unoccupied and gathering dust) to the AYCE pizza place where $6.00 gets you all the pizza and salad your body can handle. For a bunch of hikers burning upwards of 5,000 calories a day this is heaven. It doesn't seem to be doing much for the average citizen though.

I feel a bit of a cold coming on so we will reevaluate in the morning if we want to zero here or not. It is so good to be warm.

Slip n Slide

I keep on learning out here on the AT. Last night I learned how to hang my bear bag since we were at the first shelter without bear cables. First, of course, I managed to throw my entire rope out into a tree and had to fish it out with an extended hiking pole. Thankfully Z-man was there to help. He showed me all the loops to tie and the correct way to throw my rope (hint: overhand and for gods sake hold onto the other end) and hoisted my bag up for me.

I've found that, in general, men have easier trail names than women. All you have to do is add the word "man" to the end and you're pretty much set - G-man, Z-man, Goat Man, and the list goes on. Women don't get that same luxury. First world problems?

Last night was frigid. Even with my 20 degree liner I kept waking up, interrupting some very enjoyable dreams. In one I dreamt that I met RG3. We commiserated over our knee pain and love of the Redskins. Thanks for the wake up call, nature / thanks for nothing.

The morning was tough as well. The heat from yesterday partially melted the snow but the well below freezing temperatures last night caused everything to freeze into sheets of ice that lined the entire trail. From 9am until about 11:30am the entire trek was one big slip and slide up and down the mountains.

We got to the campsite at around 3:00pm and lucked out again with space in the shelter. Another thing I've learned? How to get a campfire started no matter how wet the tinder is. And that everything burns. Everything. As long as its hot enough. Do I condone throwing snickers bar wrappers into the fire? No. But wheat isn't me and that pursuant flame helps to thaw my toes? I'm not complaining. I'm also not complaining when a fellow hiker offers me a BLP at the end of a long day. Trail magic? You rule.

Tonight I'm testing the theory that one pair of socks will keep my feet warmer than two. Ill report back from the warmth of a hotel tomorrow night.

North Carolina!

We arrived in Hiawassee, GA night before last by way of a dodgy couple in a red pickup truck - the gentleman was tragically short on teeth but after that many miles in the snow and the cold we didn't care. Turtle sat on my lap the whole way into town but when we got to the Holiday Inn I could not have been happier. We cranked the heat, got under all the covers and just lay there in silence coming back up to temperature.

Hiawassee is big on the AYCE (all you can eat) establishments. We found an AYCE steakhouse and, as soon as it was reasonably acceptable to go in for dinner we - and every senior citizen in Hiawassee - headed over to Daniel's Steakhouse. Salad piled high with vegetables, fried chicken, sausage gravy, mashed potatoes, collard greens and pink lemonade. Mmm mmm! It was, in actuality, pretty gross but at the time it was nothing short of phenomenal. After a 5pm dinner we were asleep and warm by 8. Glorious.

The next day consisted of restocking on food, purchasing the warmest things I could find (UnderArmor full body base layer suit and a 20 degree sleeping bag liner? Yes please) and eating. It was glorious and restful and my knees certainly thanked me.

All of these downhills have me feeling like RG3 in the playoffs. It's rough. The downhills are so much worse than the ups - your toes slam into the front of your boots and you knees just ache from pounding down the mountains.

Today we got an early start at Dicks Creek Gap and did about 12 miles into North Carolina and officially put Georgia behind us. The welcome into NC was less than friendly though - once you pass the tiny sign denoting the border between the states you walk straight up hill at about a 45 degree angle for about three quarters of a mile. Screw you too NC.

We got to the shelter at a reasonable time and managed to get space in the shelter (hallelujah!). Thank god for all my warm purchases because tonight is going to be a doozy. 12 more miles tomorrow.

Rain

15+ miles today to a mountaintop shelter in the rain. Thankfully we ran into two bits of trail magic - both providing water and soda. No inch of my body is dry and my rain pants and boots are completely caked with mud. Today was an accomplishment but a cold, wet one at that. Man do I wish there was room in the shelter - this may not be my best tent assembly to date (though, in my defense, it is only the second time I've truly assembled a tent and the first time in the rain).

Hiawassee tomorrow for some real food. Yes please.

Pointless Ups and Downs

Today was supposed to rain just south of where we were so some of our group opted to stay in the nice toasty cabin with the HBO, kitchenette and shower. Turtle and I weren't ready for a zero yet so we opted to go another 11 miles to hopefully outrun the storm - and I think we just might've.

The trek was not quite as difficult as yesterday, but it certainly felt it. I did manage to shed about 6 pounds of weight from my pack before leaving (ain't nobody got time for that) so that lightened the load but it was still nowhere near the joy of slack packing. The mud was a doozy too - I was somewhere between glad that on the downhills that it cushioned my knees from the impact and furious that every step uphill I slid about an inch back.

We made it in decent time and got to camp around 4:00pm where we found Noodles, Stupid, Knut and a few guys we have been with every day were already there and, miracle of miracles, had managed to start a blazing fire out of wet wood by the time we arrived. And thankfully they had exactly enough room for Turtle and I in the shelter. One guy even hung a huge tarp to cover the front in case of any sideways rain tonight - screw you hypothermia.

Noodles is a trip. Big guy from Chicago that smokes like a chimney, walking around with one sock on inside his crocks while the other one burned in the fire pit (I guess they ran out of tinder?) and coercing us to play Crazy Eights "Chicago Style" and poking fun at me every chance he got (I know, it's easy).

After a round of Eights and a few unsuccessful attempts to relieve myself in the wilderness (what is wrong with me?!) we called it a night. Here's hoping the mice leave this shelter in peace tonight.

Bears seen: 0
Cat holes dug: 0

15 miles tomorrow - longest day yet. Lets hope we all sleep through the night.

Blood Mountain or: How I Feel About Slack-Packing

11+ miles to Neels Gap sounded atrocious this morning after the beating we got yesterday and with the prospect of the dreaded Blood Mountain at mile 8.5 it was nerve racking. Previous hikers talked about Blood Mountain calling it "heartbreaking" and "treacherous". So we arranged for an old woman to drive most of our stuff down the road to Neels Gap to be there upon arrival for $10. Our packs lightened by about 15lbs each, we set off.

Blood Mountain? Bitch please. We expected it to take all day and we finished all 11.4 miles in well under 5 hours including a break for lunch.

Boy was it beautiful though. The views were stunning and the terrain relatively mild. With so many streams it was a cinch finding places to restock on water and fresh filtered stream water is just about the best thing in the world.

We got to Neels Gap just after 1:30pm and managed to get the last available cabin - the gods must have been thanking me for paying it forward by carrying some of Olive Oil's stuff. Poor girls pack looked to be at least 40 pounds with her 5 pound zero degree sleeping bag strapped to the back.

The first person I met, unbeknownst to me, was AT legend Baltimore Jack. He seemed to like our crew and managed to smuggle us 2 bagels, some earl gray tea and 4 beers which he forced into our pockets - not before offering us swigs from a flask of nondescript brown alcohol, I'm assuming whiskey. I'm a big fan of Baltimore Jack.

It looks as though the storm has gone around us so we may be able to get to Low Gap tomorrow if the weather holds. My fingers are crossed. Either way, one more night with a roof and a shower is alright for this AT/camping/backpacking newbie.

Icicle

Last night was brutal. When we woke up temperatures were in the teens not including wind chill which can only begin to describe how frigid it was last night. To bed I wore: four pairs of socks, three pairs of pants, a shirt, a fleece and a wind jacket with the hood up while inside my sleeping bag and I still had next to no feeling in my legs. I slept for maybe 4 hours total and restlessly at that. The snow falling sounded like mice bombarding my tent cover from all sides. I also slept with my head lamp on and mace within reach.

Breakfast was simple - a bit of oatmeal and a bit of a semi-frozen Cliff Bar, made over my isobutane stove. With the wind as aggressive as it was I was thankful for my stove while watching all of the guys with alcohol stoves struggle to get their stores started.

We set off around 9:00am, aiming for Woody Gap, foolishly not looking at the elevation charts for the day. After a long downhill the first mountain rose in front of us - Sassafrass Mountain. The going was slow but we made it to the top in decent time. They always say that down is harder and good lord is that true. Knees, toes, balance all out of whack. Immediately after coming down from Sassafrass we hit Justus Mountain (I thought it was spelled "Justice" which would've been much more appropriate). Same thing again immediately. Yeowch.

At 10 miles in we decide to go the last 3.5 miles for Woody Gap which I had falsely believed would be a breeze. At this point two more people joined out crew - Couch and Turtle. Turtle and I led the way but my walk down the mountain was slow and slippery - the last mile to Woody Gap was a trail cut along the side of the mountain which was wet and muddy in several places, begging for us to loose our footing on our wobbly legs and slip to our deaths.

Thankfully we made it to the gap and relaxed in the parking lot until the shuttle arrived to take us into Suches to what looks to be the only business. General store/pizzeria/lounge downstairs and hostel upstairs. With the night threatening to be even colder than last night a room with four walls could not be more welcome even if I am sleeping on the floor (which I am). A shower, a few slices of pizza and two PBR tall boys later I could not be happier.

Tomorrow we slack-pack to Blood Mountain which will be our first peak over 5,000 feet - should be a doozy. Just hoping (desperately) to beat the rain.

Cat holes dug to date: 0

Today We Learn How To Camp

As I mentioned, I have never been camping prior to this very moment as I sit in my one person tent taking my lovely new tent on her maiden voyage. It is still light outside but I desperately want to warm up before the sun sets and frigidity sets in. It is supposed to be 22 degrees Fahrenheit tonight with some aggressive wind. The rain is supposed to start tomorrow.

So far it seems as though my tent assembly skills are not too shabby. My tent is upright, staked with all 8 stakes and when the wind blows I don't want to die of hypothermia just to escape the cold. Success number one.

The day started early - at 5:50am in the lobby of the La Quinta Inn & Suites. Lovely, really, and would have been more so if I had slept the night before. It was there that I met my first travel buddy - Karen. We exchanged a few brief introductions before Survivor Dave showed up to take us off to Gainesville.

I was, predictably, chatty, as I tend to be when I'm nervous. Karen was much quieter. At the Amtrak station in Gainesville we picked up British David from New York City. There was a bit of a scuffle between Survivor Dave and a can driver that set us back a bit but we got back on the road around 8:30am.

Next stop? IHop. Because what do I need the morning after Red Lobster? IHop. It was admittedly not bad - they managed, at least, to cook the eggs right and the bathrooms were relatively clean. It seems silly now, after using the privy at the shelter and refilling the bucket with wood chips to help with the stench and eating my upsettingly undercooked freeze dried Pad Thai dinner (my own fault, but still).

From there, a quick drop off of water to offer up some trail magic to other hikers and ourselves when we eventually got there before speeding off along a dangerous dirt rode to the base of Springer Mountain.

Survivor Dave, after thoroughly shooting down most of my belongings (note to future self: do not bring a bear bell, a "spare" pot or wear pink nail polish for your first day on the trail), helped me to rid my pack of everything unnecessary (including a good bit of my food) before sending us on our way.

Before heading north we had to first venture south to summit Springer Mountain. The 0.9 mile hike was relatively easy and the views phenomenal. We signed our names in the trail book and off we went.

We made great time over the first four miles and eventually decided it was time to stop for lunch. I decided to take my first foray into peeing in the woods. When I finally found a suitable place and dropped trow my nerves got the better of me and I just couldn't do it. Hopefully I will get over that tomorrow (it can't be worse than that privy...)

Aside from some stubbed toes, we arrived at the campsite safe and sound along with about 20 of our fellow hikers. Shockingly almost everyone set up a hammock or tent and only two people opted to sleep in the shelter. I, for one, in addition to setting up my own tent (with much help): filtered my own water to replenish my bottles, cooked my own dinner over my tiny stove (after first nearly lighting myself on fire), and hung my food from the lines provided to keep it away from bears.

Pretty proud if I do say so myself. Fingers crossed I make it through the night without freezing.

xoxo

Last

One last meal not cooked on a camp stove. One last night in a freshly made bed. One last scalding hot shower.

I'm really starting to think that I've lost my mind.

I barely slept last night - maybe 3 hours total. All of the lights in my little La Quinta Inn room were blaring in all their florescent glory in a desperate attempt not to oversleep the arrival of Survivor Dave. Somewhere between midnight and 1:00 I woke up to register my panic button and figure out how to use my water purifier in the sink, fully realizing just how much I had procrastinated.

Until about 20 minutes ago I was fitfully resting between and during episodes of Law and Order: SVU on my phone. Why that show calms me down probably says something about my psyche that I want to know nothing about. Now, showered and fully dressed, I'm sitting on the bed watching the minutes tick by until its time to head downstairs for my pickup. I'm blogging mostly to ensure I don't fall back asleep.

In 20 minutes the phone goes on airplane mode and I am officially off the grid. And I for one am getting more terrified by the moment. My mind is bounding between "bear attack" and "calm the fuck down you're just going for a really long walk". Pardon my French. I already miss my friends and family and, let's be honest, I mostly miss my puggle. Nothing I have done in my life has prepared me for this solitude though I suppose the best time to learn is the present.

Last night's feast at The Red Lobster is still sitting heavy but I am hopeful that it will last me for at least the next day.

Time to go - wish me luck.

xoxo

Because Survivor Dave Said So

March 22nd. That was the day I had planned on getting to the base of Springer Mountain to embark on my walkabout. Survivor Dave had other thoughts.

When you Google "how to get to the Appalachian Trail from Atlanta", the first site that pops up is one made my a man named Survivor Dave - he shuttles people to the trail. The site is simple - green background with thick curly writing that doesn't automatically adjust to the page so you have to scroll back and forth to read the sentences. He writes with the CAPS lock on a lot of the time.

This is the man that I have opted to shuttle me from Atlanta to the base of the mountain. His requirements for taking me include:

1) I did not attend Florida State University
2) I do not root for the Jets, Patriots or Bills.

He didn't sound thrilled that I was a Redskins fan but he agreed to pick me up. Not on my terms, mind you, but for $115 he will pick me up.

The original thought was to fly in, spend the night in Atlanta. In the morning, bus to Gainesville and spend the day there. Rest for one more day and then catch a shuttle to the trail.

This was not Survivor Dave's plan.

Survivor Dave is a busy man. He informs me that I will be taking the MARTA to North Point and taking a cab from La Quinta Inn and Suites. He will pick me up the next morning before dawn. Yessir, Survivor Dave.

So I guess my trek will be beginning two days earlier. Now I'm really getting nervous.

Two Weeks til Springer Mountain

Two weeks from right now I will be somewhere in the Georgian wilderness. That night I will sleep in my brand new tent (assembled once, in my parents' living room), in my brand new sleeping bag (I tried it out once, it fits) making dinner on a tiny camp stove that I have yet to use in a ultralight titanium pot. The food I make will be freeze-dried an out of a pouch - just add water.

This is going to be bad. Bring on the moonshine.

Sometimes I wonder if I have gotten so caught up in the grandeur and beauty of what I am going to be doing that I have overlooked the things that will really be my day to day on the trail. The blisters, lost toenails, aching muscles and stiff joints. The bears, feral pigs, mosquitos, ticks, rattlesnakes, moose and rodents (which carry ticks). The filtering my own water from a stream and making food over an open flame (somehow I don't think my French culinary training will come in handy in the slightest).

But the views. Oh the views. And the beauty of nature and fresh air and that incredible sense of accomplishment that comes with meeting your mileage goals at the end of the day. I think that will make up for it.

I aim to make it to Harper's Ferry, West Virginia by the end of May. At that point I have a wedding that I need to attend back in California and I will take the time to figure out if I want to continue on to Kahtadin. Realistically I don't have the faintest idea if I will continue on and I don't want to.

It's an adventure. And I can't wait to see what it brings.