Frustrations and Quick-Mud

The mud in Maine isn't just deep and squishy, it isn't the kind that oozes over the top of your shoes and moistens your socks and seeps through to linger uncomfortably between your toes. Well, it is these things on occasion, but more often than not it is something so much more vicious. Suddenly the mud becomes a solid-"looking" mass with perhaps just an inch of water on top but that will quite literally swallow you whole. In one false step you sink - quite literally - up to your knees or, if you are particularly unlucky, your waste. You spend your time walking across degraded bog bridges absolutely petrified that your foot will slip on the damp wood and your body will dissolve into the mucky oblivion. I have not yet sunk more than up to my knees but I continue to live my days in abject terror. If I disappear out here, check the bogs first. 

After our night at the base of Mount Moody we awoke early to begin our ascent up Old Blue - a solid 2,200 foot climb but thankfully our only long climb of the day. The mountain was steep and seemingly never ending but we were able to maintain just over a 2mph pace. Finally we were able to make miles again. 

When we reached Bemis Lean-To halfway into our day I was checked out. I was tired, dirty and covered in scrapes. My body ached and my eyelids were heavy with the culmination of miles over the past few days. I wish I could say this was the first time as of recent that I had felt that way but it has become increasingly more and more frequent. 

I am over the Appalachian Trail. For so long we have focused on "making it to Maine" and by now we have. All of these seemingly erroneous miles feel tedious, boring, pointless and distressingly long. I am impatient as I trudge along each day, literally aching for the consistency of a warm bed, my loved ones and my puppy. I am equally eager, surprising even myself, to return to the rigors of everyday life with the normalcy of employment that does not consist o the words "vagrant" or "drifter". I find myself getting angry at the trail for twisting and turning, forcing us up and down hills at aggressive angles when a path through the valley would have been equidistant. 

I aired these concerns to Danno as we made our way slowly to the next road crossing where his ride was waiting for him to take him into town to see a doctor in regards to his weak and painful knees. Danno - since I have not spoken about him much previously - is a 50 year old Hawaiian retiree who has so far crushed the entirety of the trail. After 1900 miles he has lost 70lbs - what a doctor had previously recommended for him to lost - and intends, much to his doctors chagrin, I would imagine, to gain it all back upon returning home. He is the kind of man that asks the simple questions but that you feel comfortable and almost obliged to give the long answers to. 

When we arrived at the road less than 4 miles from the shelter we again ran into Red Knees, Timex and Chaos who had hiked a bit ahead. Danno found his ride and we parted ways there, him driving due west and the four of us pressing on up the mountain. 

A relatively short and quick 4 miles later we arrived at Sabbath Day Pond and Shelter and set up tents. The night was brisk but, with an inner tube hanging from the roof of the shelter, Chaos and Timex decided to go for a dip in the warm water. I visited the beach but quickly returned to the shelter and warmth of my tent and sleeping bag. 

This morning we awoke early and did - essentially - a death sprint for the 10 miles into Rangeley, ME. The terrain was mindless and at the very end of our descent we found a cooler full of ice cold sodas. The day was off to a great start. 

I wish it stayed there. We struggled significantly getting a hitch and eventually gave up and walked down to a hostel just off the trail and requested a shuttle into the town. On the drive in, the woman spoke with us about Geraldine Largay, the woman who had disappeared off the trail just a few weeks ago in the immediate area and who still has yet to have been found. She speculated that it might have been foul play (it's always the husband if I've learned anything from Law & Order) and relayed her theories to us. As if I wasn't already nervous enough about the abduction threats in this area. 

In town we quickly resupplied at the worlds most expensive grocery store before walking down to the pub to grab burgers and beers for lunch. The restaurant was overburdened with what appeared to be a Harley Davidson convention leaving the one waitress tragically overworked and delayed the caloric gratification for these hungry hikers. I tried to explain to my companions that her tip should not suffer - she was hustling very impressively - but all of my grouchy male hiking companions did not agree so I ended up grossly over-tipping to compensate. 

Finally full, Red Knees and I headed to the library to use computers larger than the iPhone screen that I am currently squinting into so that I could look into the details of my dad's trip out to Maine to rescue me when this adventure us finally over. I composed a massive email and sent it off to him. 

Moments later I received a text from him alluding to the fact that he may not be coming out after all and I broke. My heart dropped into my tragically battered feet and sat there. His visit was, in large part, my motivation to continue walking and though it isn't officially gone, it felt gone. I walked the 2 miles out of town slowly and listlessly with tears silently running down my cheeks, praying that Red Knees wouldn't turn around and see. I knew I was acting like a child but at a point you become so fragile, degrading to a house of cards that takes the slightest breeze to crumble, exhausted from the physical, mental and emotional toll of the trail. 

Though I have toyed with the idea of yellow blazing fairly heavily I am still committed to the walking. I hope that my mind is able to catch up to my feet soon to make the remainder of this journey as enjoyable as possible. 

Less than 220 miles to Katahdin. 

*note: as of this morning my dad WILL be able to come out. Woohoo!