Forward Progress

Some days, like yesterday, when I can't quite get into the beat of the music in my headphones and I'm walking alone, I spend entirely too much time thinking about what to write here - what emotions I need to remember to convey, good metaphors that should definitely make the cut, witty repartee and snarky remarks that will keep people interested in this adventure when, in reality, more often than not it isn't that interesting. Last night when I sat down to write I had a full arsenal of literary gems and a whole hour of daylight in which to write them...and then I fell asleep. It's getting real geriatric up in here. 

We left Chloe's at around 9:30am and managed to get two good hitches back to the trail head, the second of which could only take us as far as Bromley Mountain ski area unless we could wait for him to pick up an elderly gentleman who he was taking to a doctors appointment. Not wanting to hitch again we squeezed into the backseat and had the pleasure of meeting Bob, perhaps slow on his feet but with stories of the trails in the area that got us jazzed up for our walk. 

The first climb of the day up Bromley appeared to be the biggest and it was over in a flash. The view from the top by the chairlift was gorgeous with views of 5 states and a sneak peak to the mountains we would soon be climbing (note: they're huge). 

From there the day was all gradual ups and downs that I cruised over quickly, arriving at the halfway point of the day early, considering our late start. At Peru Peak Shelter I again ran into Twix, Paraguay, Not Yet and Sunshine and we had a great chat while I forced down ever more peanut butter in an attempt to get enough calories (I should be eating, by my calculations, about an additional 500-1,000 calories a day. This has never been a problem I have had before). 

After lunch I tried to wait for Holler but my restlessness got the best of me and I had to move on. The next 10 miles seemed to fly by and, after a quick rest at Big Branch Shelter and a conversation with two southbound brothers with packs easily twice the size of mine (those will get swapped out in two weeks tops), I arrived at Little Rock Pond. The water was beautiful and clear - if the temperature had remained in the 90s I would have jumped in in a heartbeat. 

At the shelter just off the water we again ran into Danno and O.B. and chatted with some day hikers before a remarkably early bed time. The next morning we got a much earlier start so we could take it slow. 

Of course I say these things to myself at the beginning of the day and by my third mile in I have become a runaway train, running over rocks and roots at a minimum of 3 miles an hour until I realize what's happening and I consciously slow down only to have the process repeat in the next few minutes. 

The early part of yesterday was beautiful - the day was cloudy giving the air a substantial chill and the trail was lined with young pine trees, the combination of which made the forest smell like Christmas morning and the fallen pine needles added spring to the ground beneath our feet. Eventually the trees thinned and the smell waned, leaving us with just the biting cold of the morning so again I took off. 

Despite some good climbs the views were few and far between (thanks for nothing Bear Mountain) and I ended up pushing through the day quickly. So quickly, in fact, that I almost didn't stop to say hello to a group of Southbounders until they offered me a celebratory sip of their boxed White Zinfandel. Celebratory?

There, nailed to a tree, was a tiny piece of wood engraved with the words "500 miles to Katahdin". 500. I remember so vividly the 1,000 mile to go mark, taking a picture with S'Rocket and 2pac and celebrating the beginning of the countdown. Now half of that is behind me and arguably the most challenging 500 miles is ahead of me. 

As I walked away, with a slight buzz and my headphones back in, the sun peaked through the clouds and I cried, just a little. I had made it so far and will make it so much farther. When I began this trip I knew nothing about backpacking and camping except that I wanted to do it. So many times I have nearly given up on this great adventure but something has kept me going. It's the little victories and gifts that the trail brings - a milestone or a bouquet of wildflowers from a gay couple out on a late hike with their adopted son. Sometimes just letting your muscles rest in a warm sleeping bag on a cool, bug-less night is all the reward you need.